![]() Therefore, both types of gauge are still heavily used within motorsport. The digital gauge often costs more and requires accurate calibration. A digital gauge usually needs a frame to sit in which can be located on the wheel to give even more accurate readings. The digital gauge can be used on uneven ground and can be calibrated to the angle of the ground before accurately measuring the wheel camber. However, they do require the car to be sat on level ground to give an accurate reading. Spirit bubble gauges don’t require any calibration and are an analogue read out. Camber gauges can be digital or spirit bubble. There are two main techniques used to measure how many degrees of camber a wheel has. Suspension Secrets Porsche GT Circuit Handling Pack Developmentīefore you can begin to adjust and tune camber you must first be able to measure it and measure how effective a camber change would be to alter the grip.Suspension Secrets M3ATER Build – Part 2.Suspension Secrets M3ATER Build – Part 1. ![]() Porsche 930 Flatnose – Improving an Icon.Dallara World Series Single Seater – Under The Skin.Budget to Premium Coilovers – Whats The Real Difference?.2022 Porsche Cayman GT4 RS Suspension Overview.Calculating Ideal Spring and Roll Bar Rates Part 2.Calculating Ideal Spring and Roll Bar Rates.Tyre Performance and Grip – A Deeper Look.Tyre Failure – Graining, Tearing, Blistering and Wearing.Coilovers – Correct Ride Height Setting.The fundamental categories of suspension geometry are: Ackermann Bump Steer Camber Camber Gain Caster Front View Swing Arm Fundamentals of Grip Instantaneous Centre King Pin Inclination Scrub Radius Toe Tyre Slip Angle There are more aspects to suspension geometry but the most influential are listed above and are the focus of this website. Geometry Suspension geometry is a mixture of theoretical lines designed into a suspension system to make it work in a particular designed way.If you need further assistance, a certified professional from YourMechanic can come to your car’s location to inspect the suspension and guide you through any needed adjustments. In extreme cases, a bad toe adjustment will also prematurely wear out suspension parts. If toe is off, basically the tires not only "scrub" the road as you move forward but that scrubbing necessarily causes the engine to work harder than it needs to and thus uses excess fuel. The toe adjustment, however, MUST be within the factory specified "range" if you are to get reasonable service out of the tires and also get the best possible gas mileage from the car. 060 inches toe in (that’s 60/1000 of an inch split across each side, so an even smaller amount if you are just looking at one tire).Īs noted, camber is not usually a big deal unless it is varies from side to side in which case the car will fight you at the steering wheel. Again, we are talking about very tiny amounts. If the tires/wheels are set such that they are EXACTLY parallel to each other, you have zero toe. If the tires are pointed out (splayed), you have "toe-out". If the front of the tires are pointed "inward", you have toe-in. "Toe" simply refers to the amount (measured in "inches", "millimeters", or degrees) that the front tires are pointed inward or outward, as you stand in front of the car looking at the grille/hood dead on. Toe is completely (entirely) unrelated to camber and unlike camber if the toe is off significantly on your car you can prematurely wear out the tires not to mention use lots of extra gasoline as the front tires are literally dragged down the road. Unless camber is way, way off it is unimportant insofar as wear on the tires. So whatever camber is selected when an alignment is done, it is important that the value on both sides of the car be kept nearly the "same". With regard to "camber" the thing to keep in mind is if camber on one front tire/wheel varies too much from camber on the other front tire/wheel, the car will tend to pull, or wander to the side with more "positive" camber. The amount is measured in fractions of a degree (a little bit makes a big difference and the tolerances are small which explains why alignments have to be done very carefully). Your car was designed with a tiny bit of negative camber, which is typical, because negative camber promotes vehicle stability on turns. If the tire/wheel assembly are perfectly vertical relative to the ground, you have "zero" camber. If, however, the top of the tire/wheel tilts out toward you as you are viewing the tire/wheel, you have positive camber. So if you are looking at the side of your car at the front tire/wheel and the TOP of the tire/wheel is tilted in, that is toward the centerline of the car, you have negative camber. Camber refers to the amount, if any, that the top of the wheel/tire assembly is tilted in (or out) relative to an imaginary perfectly vertical position for the tire/wheel.
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